DIY the commercial glaze on mug #1: You must consider five factors to make it work

Tuesday 15th May 2018

The mug on the left, #1, is a commercial brushing glaze. It is opaque enough to cover this red-burning clay body. It shows the desired effect. That depends on the fact that opaque glazes stretch thinner on the sharp edges of insight-live.com/glossary/222">incised designs. If they have enough melt mobility and are applied right, the effect is amplified. This potter is attempting to mix her own DIY equivalent as a dipping glaze, adding 4% tin oxide to a transparent base glaze in #2 and zircon (a higher percentage) in #3. As you can see, the effect is not working as well, and there are several reasons:

#2 is whiter because it uses tin oxide as the opacifier (vs. zircon, likely used in #1). #2 and #3 have less melt fluidity; the base is likely G2926B. #1 was applied by brush, the others using a dipping glaze. Matching the original involves a combination of things: A base having more flux (especially B2O3) is needed (e.g. G3806C). Careful control of application thickness. The right percentage of opacifier. And, it may be necessary to mix the DIY version as a brushing glaze, that method of application might be needed to get the careful control of thickness and thickness variation needed.

Pages that reference this post in the Digitalfire Reference Library:

A comparative glaze opacity test in a tile lab: The way to minimize Zircon, Opacity, Opacifier

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